Zannier Phum Baitang 

Foolishly, we started the main part of our tour of SE Asia at Phum Baitang. Everything else got judged by this extraordinarily high standard. First, arrival at Siem Reap airport: smooth, swift and straight into PB's air-conditioned vehicle. Siem Reap itself is a little dusty so the PB estate is a welcome oasis but it is far more than that. The wooden structures, rice fields and abundant greenery are not only beautiful but extremely relaxing. Our welcome was, at least for us, a European couple in their late 60s, entirely correct: personal without being inappropriately so, swift without being rushed and efficient without being in the least bit cold. Our room, up on stilts opposite a bright green rice field, was magnificent. So often, there is inadequate hanging space or insufficient light or a skimpy bath robe. None of that! Linens were all high quality, the bathroom generously sized, plenty of power sockets for phones, laptops etc and aircon that worked. But it isn't the physical side of PB that impresses the most. It is a combination of staff and that intangible: atmosphere. Every single person we met was charming and engaged, from the spa to the bar. Both restaurants were relaxed and delightful. Even the man washing down the water buffalo in the afternoon made us smile. There is bird life everywhere, from jungle fowl to the hundreds of swifts screaming above the paddy fields as the sound goes down, catching insects. The guides, too, arranged by the hotel, were full of knowledge, very open to wider conversations, for instance about the troubled history of the country, and flexible as to what to see and when. Angkor Wat is, as expected, astonishing but there is so much more to see and our two guides helped us to see at least some of it! IIf you're planning to visit the Siem Reap area, we couldn't recommend PB too highly. We enjoyed it so much we've actually booked a 2027 trip to Namibia (not South Africa, the original plan) in order to enjoy Zannier hospitality again. It was that good!