Areta Etxea

We needed a place for two weeks that could accommodate three of our children, their partners, our grandchild and our friends from Australia who we sometimes share holidays with. A party of 11 in total, though the house can accommodate more. Firstly this is very much a home. If you are in to minimalist interiors, this is probably not the place for you. It is very clean, has en-suite facilities but has a welcoming, lived in feel to it. We really treasured this aspect. We live in a house that is two hundred years old, but this house is the grand-daddy with parts of the walls that go back to the first century - two thousand years old! Our two year old granddaughter referred to the house as "our castle" because of the proximity to the fortified main gate to the village. The owner was welcoming and attentive without being intrusive. We were taken around the family cellar, given a wine tasting and a bottle of wine. The owner appeared very involved in the life of this small but vibrant village and would check how we were and if we had any problems when we saw him around and about the village. He was also very helpful in suggesting places to visit. The castles at Ocio and Portilla are very close and a must see. The Ruta del Agua was also brilliant if you like messing about in waterfalls and cold water (I do). We had appreciated from the photos that the pool was small and a little distance from the house, but this gave a safety advantage with the young child and the pool was a welcome spot to cool off and relax, with lovely views of the limestone mountains. The first week we stayed the village (150 inhabitants) was a slumbering rural idyll. The second week, we were warned, would be noisy. It was! Partying late into the night and varying (noisy) activities every day and night. We accepted and enjoyed this as part of the genuine experience, but if you are after a peaceful retreat you'd be better checking dates of festivities prior to booking. I was nervous as I had booked the accommodation and felt responsible for "getting it right" for a largish party with eclectic tastes. The consensus was that it was perfect. A car is essential, though my eldest daughter and her husband are keen walkers and managed to walk to Haro and back, which they really enjoyed. My wife in particular hates crowded tourists traps. This is off the beaten path (though on one or even two of the Caminos) and was perfect for her and her love of forests/nature. We would visit again and have fallen a little in love with this part of Spain on the boundary of Araba/Alava and the Rioja Baja region.