Riad des Palmiers

A week before travelling we searched the net for a suitable apartment in Essaouira. We were attracted by the pictures showing the Riad's bright clean appearance, and attractive traditional decor. On attempting to book, we found several sites listed the Riad as not available,or "fully booked" As a last chance, we went in on HomeAway, and found our dates were available - to our surprise! The different websites gave different impressions of what was available, with details of different apartments and floors mixed up. We booked an apartment, but it was not clear which floor had been allocated to us, nor were the facilities clearly specified. There was also a rather aggressive note from HomeAway, after we had paid in full, stating that none of the payment would be refunded under any circumstances. We were committed! Looking at another website, we found the three apartments in the Riad described accurately, and decided that the second floor with a large sun terrace was exactly what we were looking for (we had a rather stressful time prior to leaving, and needed a relaxing sunny break) Fortunately, we found the owner's contact number, and things improved from there. Diane was most considerate, and ensured that we had the preferred second floor apartment, providing us with all the information we could possibly need (taxis, buses, restaurants) plus the name and contact number for the concierge, Abdul, and the housekeeper, Fouzia. (Both of whom were helpful and obliging.) Like many Riads, there was an open central well from the ground floor to the roof, with each apartment opening off a landing around it. Only the ground floor was occupied, so it was pleasantly quiet throughout our stay. The bedroom (1 of 2) we used was larger than appears in the photographs; the bed was comfortable, with fresh linen, and the full bathroom, opening off, had a generous supply of hot water. (The second bedroom had a shower ensuite) The kitchen facilities were a bit dated, but adequate. The sun terrace was large with sunbeds, a dining table and chairs; it was sunny throughout the day, and the view included the sea and the beach, less than half a mile away. The Riad was just inside the wall of the medina, and outside the wall there was a pleasant park, which meant the area was quiet, in contrast to the hubbub of the medina centre. The ground floor had a pretty garden with a dip pool, and access to the roof terrace, which would be quite a climb. The middle floor had an internal lounge, and also access to the roof terrace. The facilities appeared to be the same as ours on the second floor. There is a bakery within 100 metres where you can get freshly baked bread pretty much any time of day (at least we did), and thoroughly recommend the traditional Moroccan restaurant "SAYEF", which is in the same passage as the bakery, and even closer. SAYEF does not serve wine, and we're not sure if you could bring your own. There is now a Carrefour supermarket on the outskirts of town (by taxi, 7 Dr there, 7 Dr back), where you will be able to buy more familiar items (and wine). The internet access during our stay (September) was fine, with good clear connection; don't try to pay with non-English sterling notes if asked for sterling in the souk, they are not aware of exotic Ulster and Scottish banknotes (it happens in England too!) We like Essaouira so much, this is our third visit over a number of years; while it has developed, and now has more visitors, it has not lost its magic. The port is charming, with freshly landed fish cooked in stalls on the spot. The Medina is a maze of alleys and squares, with craft workshops of all kinds (and sweat shops) to be discovered. The female dress is varied from jeans to hijabs, but it is only polite for Europeans to show a bit of restraint, and enjoy the genuine traditional Moroccan welcome! We look forward to our fourth visit in the not too distant future! Thanks Diane - we returned home relaxed and ready for the action at home.