Symi Filoxenia

Symi Filoxenia consists of 2 self-catered apartments owned and operated by a very friendly family based in the remote bay of Marathounta. We stayed for 3 nights in August 2020 in the ground floor apartment (no sea view, but didn’t need one - the apartments are virtually on the beach!) It was all a bit of a gamble as we had no idea what to find given all the turmoil elsewhere at the moment. We shouldn’t have worried; Symi and, in particular, Marathounta couldn’t be further from it all. The pebble beach is incredible, with some of the clearest water I’ve seen (even in Greece). The right side of the bay is teeming with a variety of fish. Bring a snorkel! We had the beach largely to ourselves, with a few day trippers topping it up during the day, but vanishing again by late afternoon, although the goats - a perennial favourite - will remain your trusty companions. We mostly ate at the excellent Taverna Marathounta where the waitress (Magalia?) and chef (Stavros) serve fantastic food - think Symi shrimp, salads and fresh fish cooked on an open grill - accompanied by infinitely drinkable wine and quintessentially Greek hospitality. The Taverna is open for breakfast at 10am through to an early dinner (especially for Greece) at 6.30pm. Gialos was busy and has many other eating options for those not using the self-catering facilities at the apartment (for which you will need to come prepared - we did not!) The apartment was spotlessly clean and would be good for a family (one double room and another room with 2 singles). There is air conditioning throughout and a patio with loungers, although we didn’t spend much time at the apartment as the beach was so close. Gina, a lovely and very gentle German Shepherd, will take care of it for you in your absence. Merkourios, a son of the family, very kindly took us from and to Gialos at the beginning and end of the trip (taxis are available but be sure to book ahead - your hosts or the Taverna will book for you - and cost €25 to get from one end of the island to the other, rising to €30 at night). Water taxis are usually available though were not at the time of writing due to reduced demand during the pandemic. We took a walk to the stunning bay of Panormitis, a monastery dedicated to St Michael. It’s only 3.5km from Marathounta, but leave early and take water if travelling in summer (as you’ll be walking back in mid-morning sun). It’s worth it. You might even join some of the really dedicated pilgrims who have gotten up at 5am to do the vertiginous 25km walk from Gialos. All in all it’s a slice of unspoilt Greek island loveliness - you won’t regret it.