Hôtel Madison

The last time I visited the Madison Hotel in Saint-Germain-des-Prés was in November 2021, when Terrance Gelenter—“our American friend in Paris”— first launched his evenings of song at this prestigious address, 143 boulevard Saint-Germain. It was just as we were putting Covid behind us, and the chance to step out for an evening on the Left Bank felt like a sparkling adventure. Returning last Friday, I was delighted to find that Terrance’s musical evenings at the Madison have evolved into a club-like event, with an even better vibe. From the moment I walked in, the front desk and bar staff were as warm and welcoming as possible. The show began a little later than scheduled to accommodate guests delayed by metro problems, and Terrance encouraged us to mingle in the beautiful lounge. As I sipped an excellent glass of red wine (the Madison’s wine list is short but compiled of impressive choices) and chatted with fellow guests, I found everyone in high spirits—ready to relax, enjoy, and make new friends. Some were wistful that their Paris stay was ending, but most were already planning their next trip back. There’s often talk of Paris losing some of its elegance these days. Fashion has become more casual—even in the chicest spots sneakers and sportswear are common—but I still relish the chance to dress up for an evening out. Why let beautiful dresses languish in a wardrobe with mothballs? At the Madison, many women sparkled in elegant attire alongside their dashing beaux, creating an atmosphere that felt both glamorous and effortless. But true elegance, I realized, isn’t just about clothes or décor—it’s an attitude, a certain je ne sais quoi. And though the French are famed for it, that evening it was in abundant supply among the mostly American audience. Terrance and his accompanist Sheldon were perfectly turned out, the décor was delightful, and the crowd was enthusiastic. I could have been in an upscale jazz club in New York or San Francisco, with the extras the City of Light has to offer, thrown in. Terrance, affectionately known as the “Baron of Brooklyn,” held the floor with his melodious, old-world style, captivating us with favorites like My Foolish Heart, Sabor a Mí, Blame It on My Youth, and Over the Rainbow. Sheldon Forrest—who has been playing piano since the age of three—was the perfect partner. An uber-talented pianist, he is a master of jazz, blues, pop, rock, Broadway, classical, and chanson française. He is widely regarded as one of the best pianists on the Paris scene. Bravo to the Madison Hotel and everyone involved for hosting such quality evenings—especially at the reasonable rate of a 10€ entry fee. My excellent glass of wine was 7€, also a fair price for the quality and the unbeatable location. With the Saint-Germain-des-Prés church just across the boulevard—its bells adding their own music as you cross the threshold—the Madison Hotel could not be more perfectly situated, and the evenings more scintillating. I’ll definitely be back!