Four Seasons Hotel

We didn't stay at the hotel so disregard any ratings. We did the three day tour with our H'Mong guide Ms Kim. The Sapa township was ok, we didn't find it anything exceptional, but we were admittedly there for the cultural experience of the local village life. The area is great for trekking, it rained on days one and two but that was of no consequence to our guide.....we were walking irrespective of the weather she said. The Tavan homestay was a real highlight, we met some great people there and had an awesome night sipping (or was that skulling) "happy water", aka rice spirits. The dorm sleeping arrangements were brilliant and even the girls thought it was a great experience. Shared facilities were clean and the food delicious. The hardships of rural subsistence living were very evident, and it's clear that tourists are targeted for whatever money that can be extracted from them. We need to accept that this is part of the travelling experience and it's just another issue that needs to be managed. Be firm, and polite and you will have no troubles. If you are followed during your trekking by locals, they are there to help and if they do, they deserve a little recognition ($$) for their help or at the very least buy some of the wares that they are selling. Some of the prices are very reasonable but you need to haggle. We had an awesome time with Ms Kim. The trekking was great fun and her knowledge of the area and the customs was exceptional, but the key factor for us was her attitude to her job, her family and life in general. She is one of the most inspirational and lovable people we have ever met. We also fell in love with a little H'Mong girl called Zong. She was absolutely adorable and I would have adopted her right then and there. She like Ms Kim, was an inspiration, they simply never stop smiling. It certainly makes you wonder why we strive for more 'stuff' in our lives. They have very little 'stuff' yet their joy for the simple things in life is endless. If you want a lesson in happiness then Ms Kim is your best teacher. The Sapa is an awesome experience, the scenery is great but the real jewels lie in the hearts of the local people.