Riad TOYOUR

Over Christmas 2024, our family of four, joined by another family of two, began a two-week journey through Morocco. The first stop: Riad Toyour, a place that will forever remain etched in my memory—not just for its beauty but for Idris, a host unlike any I’ve encountered in decades of travel. Walking into the riad felt like stepping into a secret treasure chest. The courtyard, lush and alive with birdsong, welcomed us with an air of serenity. The intricate tilework, finely carved balconies, and enchanting roof terrace adorned with bonsai trees and iron trellises created a space that felt both timeless and inviting. There was an almost literary magic to it, as if Edith Wharton or Anaïs Nin might step through the door at any moment. We arrived jet-lagged and stiff from the long journey—plane to Casablanca, then a van ride to Fez. Idris was there to meet us, waiting at the nearby parking area where he met us like old friends. Bags were whisked away to our rooms, and then we found ourselves at dinner in the courtyard, where Idris assumed the role of waiter and friend, as we bantered back and forth to learn more about each other. Idris is just amazing. His command of French and English is excellent, and apparently he speaks German as well. He was so nimble in teasing a little French out of those of use less proficient in the language. The riad itself was stunning, but Idris’s attentiveness really took it to a different level. By the time we finished the meal, I realized we were in the hands of a remarkable person. The highlight of our stay was a day tour of Fez, orchestrated with the kind of thoughtfulness that makes memories last a lifetime. Idris took my rough plan and reimagined it into something magical. Idris’s willingness to work with the van driver, Samir and the breadmaking school was so generous, and he created a magical day that none of us will forget. We began with a guided tour of the Medina by Samir, a former manager of Fes's famous hotel La Maison Bleue. Samir’s deep connections to the city were plainly evident—it seemed as if every few minutes, someone would greet him warmly. This sense of connection to the city and its people made the Medina come alive in ways way beyond our expectations. During the tour, Idris arranged a rooftop bread-making class at the Palais Amani. Together, we made made our loaves of dough on the sunsoaked roof terrace, then, with loaves on wooden boards, one balanced on the head of our chef, we took them back down, outside through a few winding alleys, where we gave the to the baker, who then baked them in the communal oven. This was as if the ancient fabric of the city had come alive, giving us access to a tradition of life in the medina that probably has never been broken in over 1000 years. I'm pretty sure Idris is the best hotelier I have encountered. He has a rare gift for hospitality, making us feel as if we were the only guests in the world, even in the midst of the holiday bustle. Decades of travel have taken me to many incredible places, but none with this level of attentive service. I almost feel emotional with gratitude even as I write this review. What an incredible place.