Riad Dar Jdati

It's a peaceful haven while all about is bathed in chaotic hubbub with people moving like a steaming river of humanity. Factually it has 3 (non-smoking) bedroom (2 doubles and a third room with bunk beds for two and a single bed) - so could sleep 7 at a rather cosy pinch. Each bedroom has a/c and a separated shower/loo/basin area. Long narrow rooms in the Arab tradition. There is also a 'sitting room' with a/c, TV (all Arab or French stations plus, somewhat oddly, BloombergTV), CD. DVD and radio. There are a load of music CDs - all Arabic. The DVDs look suspiciously like bootlegs that are either subtitled or in Arabic. There is a separate loo that also has a washing machine with a great sack of bio powder. The kitchen is fully equipped - although cooking using the gas oven/hob heats the small room up something rotten. Big fridge and smallish freezer section - a Godsend for all the absolutely necessary water and less than necessary (who says?) white/rose wine storage. The central area is open to the ever blue sky and has a small (small single bed sized) plunge pool aerated by a cascade of water over a tiled wall. It's only about 3' deep but it's wonderful to sit on the edge and dangle your legs and, occasionally, slip into the water that just comes up to the parts that, generally, feel cool/cold water most acutely. The roof terrace is fine, with tables, chairs and sunbeds but we only used it in the evening when it was starting to cool. The whole place is beautifully decorated with exquisite tiles, painted Arab style doors, cool floor tiles, white painted walls and beam and bamboo ceilings. The house is also occupied by a couple of cheerful and chirpy little birds who return to their small wooden cage sitting on one of the large terracotta pots either side of the plunge pool. They will happily share your breakfast - even if not invited. And so we come the Ahmed. He is one of the most delightful people we have ever met in our travels. He was effective and efficient with all the email remote booking, deposit sending and general communications before we arrived. On arrival he so welcoming, was always there to look after things we needed, making phone calls, telling us where to get stuff, preparing lovely breakfasts of bread, jams, pancakes. coffee and cake etc. He was always smiling and always seemed cheerful. His English is very limited but he understood our feeble French well enough ("Good Moaning"). Undoubtedly he was the main reason our stay was so relaxing and enjoyable. Thank you Ahmed. Tips (which apply wherever you stay in Marrakech Medina: 1) don't worry when the taxi (which collects you from the airport at no extra cost) drops you in the middle of a seething mass of humanity on the Derb Dubachi - all looking intently at you and your so-very-touristy suitcases. By the end of the second day you'll be used to it. 2) When you change your currency at the airport into Dahrems (you have to do this and you also have to change out of Dh landside when you leave) ensure you ask for loads of 20Dh notes. The concept of change seems alien to taxi drivers or most small shops (in and out of the Souks) and you'll find yourself being rounded up to the nearest 50Dh (£4-ish) if you only have 50, 100 and 200 notes. Try as we might we couldn't seem to accumulate much in the way of coins. 3) For OK priced drinks (alcoholic) and good atmosphere in the Medina try The Marrakchi (on Jemaa El Fna and/or, with its spirited 2-for-one deals, Le Salama (on the Rue des Banques which leads off the Jamaa El Fna).4) For swimming try the Jardins de Koutoubia hotel just off the square (200 Dh pp for a day's use of the pool and access to restaurant and bars. Its a 4 star place so to slop in in 'I'll wash tomorrow' clothes might make you feel a bit awkward. Also try Manzil La Tortue which is out of town This place is wonderful - see a separate review. 5) To buy your beer/wine/spirits go to one of the two Carrefours. One is near the Place 16 Novembre in the new ('could-be-anywhere) Gueliz area and the other is further away on the Route Ourika opposite the bottom end of the Jardin Agdal. Mysterious opening hours though - late afternoon seems best. 6) Take Imodium with you. 7) Bargaining: start at 20% of the first asking price, be polite and cheerful. Walk away politely if the price doesn't drop to below 45% of the original or if you're offered a large number of camels or a smaller number of Mercedes for your partner as part of the deal. 8) Check local holiday dates before you book - we didn't and everything shut down for 3 of our seven days. Shops and Souks were shut but the Berber Sheep Festival ensured that the streets were awash with people killing, dismembering and cooking goats and skinning (hopefully) dead sheep, leaving the festering skins of the road for passers-by to scrutinise. 9) Don't use Great Travel for any excursions - see separate review. 10) Remember that some people love Marrakech and its Medina and some people hate Marrakech and its Medina and so there's only one way to find out which one you are. So if you do go to find out: go to see Ahmed at the Raid Dar Jdati.