Mesnerhof

I'm a city guy, and when the itinerary for our first visit to Italy listed Venice, Florence, Milan, Lake Como and the Cinque Terre, I knew it would be good ... and also figured I'd just good-naturedly endure the three days at this farmhouse in the mountains. Turns out, the Dolomites were my all-out favorite part of an utterly unforgettable trip. Everywhere else we stayed was good to great, but Fie allo Sciliar was magical. And largely because of the Mesnerhof. The owner/manager Helga, her husband and their niece were remarkably gracious hosts, and their farm is located on this indescribably idyllic hillside. Scenery out of Heidi or The Sound of Music on all sides, with the massive Schlern dominant. The cloud patterns created an entirely different view every day, and each was memorable in its own way. We were here off season, so the streets and restaurants weren't crowded. But you could see how skiing would absolutely take over these villages in the winter. As it was, late June was a perfect time to walk the trails that cross through the rolling hills and farm fields. Short sleeve by day, maybe a light windbreaker in the evening. Traffic was light, dinner reservations were easy - and of course, there was no concern about snow or ice on the winding, hilly roads. This is one of those experiences that you simply have to ... well, experience ... to genuinely know. "Cool breezes at night with mountain-crisp air," "nodding to cheerful through-hikers on lightly traveled, paved walkways at dawn," "encountering a church that dates to the 15th century" ... it's all pretty words, but there's no real power until you're living it. And this place is worth the trip. Helga serves a farm breakfast that looks deceptively simple - but is exquisite. A homemade juice or even mint water, fresh bread and pastries, eggs and a couple of other items ... nothing that by the description alone sounds special. But it's beyond special. Enjoy it on the outdoor picnic tables while gazing at the Schlern and hearing the cows in the field, and you've got a meal you won't forget.