Tokonamiso Ryokan

We stayed here July 17-19, 2019. It was my first time visiting the area, and we chose it so we could hike the Nakasendo Trail. Since the inn is closer to Tsumago, we took a train from Kyoto to the Nagiso Station. From there, we took a taxi to the bus stop in Tsumago where hotel pickups are. (Tell the taxi driver you would like to go to the bus stop that takes you to Tokonamiso.) The hotel shuttle runs at specific times, and you should confirm with the hotel that you will be using it. While we waited we ended up walking up the path the main street in Tsumago and got some snacks and did a little shopping.(There are lockers at the bus stop for your luggage.) I knew the hotel did not provide dinner unless you reserve the box dinner, so we loaded up on some yaki beef and other foods, and also had brought some food from Kyoto station. The bus driver was personable and we enjoyed the lush, scenic drive to the inn. If I remember correctly, it was about 20 minutes. Check in was smooth, and the front desk personnel were polite and kind. At one point during my stay I needed to print something for work, and they were very accommodating. The small gift shop in the lobby has some lovely souvenirs and sweets. The grounds are shared by two hotels--Fuki no Mori and Tokonamiso. The Fuki no Mori is more modern and is where the check in, lounge, eating areas, and onsen are located. We were walked to our room in a separate, older looking building, down a short incline. I really liked the vibe--the lobby there was open with some benches, and had a kitchenette with a large refrigerator for guest use, as well as water. Shoes are not allowed to be worn inside, so you leave them in a shoe shelf as you enter. The room was very spacious, and the only furniture was a low table. There were built in cabinets and shelves for luggage. There were inner doors that you could slide open to let in or block out the light. Everything was clean, and the futon (that you set up by yourself) were very comfortable. To respond to the other reviewer about it being dirty and old, I disagree. I found it to be very clean with more of a retro vibe that seemed intentional, not neglected. The wifi worked well. There is a beautiful lounge area near the onsen with teas and a panoramic view of the forest. It's stunning and peaceful. I ended up meditating there twice. The best part of the inn were the onsen. They are accessed through the main building where reception is located. There are two areas, and the women use one side and the men the other. Make sure you look at the signs as every night they will switch sides so you can experience both. Each side has its merits. Both were clean, peaceful, and well kept with both indoor and outdoor options, and gorgeous scenery. I would go back to Japan just to visit their onsen again. The next day we took the shuttle to the bus depot, where we took another bus to Magome and started our day hike. We loaded up on snacks in Magome, and at some point not too far into the walk, stopped at a soba shop. After many enjoyable hours of hiking, we reached Tsumago, enjoyed the sights and stores, and walked the path to the shuttle to return to the ryokan. Make sure you confirm the times for shuttle pick up before you leave. When we returned we had our box dinner, reserved 3 days in advance. It was fine--I would say it was fairly standard and I enjoyed it, but more for the entire experience of wearing yukata, sitting on the floor and enjoying the Japanese style room, and less for the actual food. A little bit about language.... I'm American and have a good working knowledge of Japanese. Most employees only speak Japanese. If I didn't speak it, I'm sure Google translate would suffice. I could have stayed a week. I know I will be back someday. Enjoy!